Travel guide: 1-week itinerary in Puglia

Buongiorno! Last October, I spent a week road tripping in Puglia, the heel of the Italian boot. The weather was perfect, warm enough to swim and not too hot, without the full summer crowds. It turned out being my favourite part of the country!

If you’re dreaming of whitewashed villages, crystal-clear beaches, centuries-old olive groves, and some of the best food in Italy, then Puglia deserves a spot at the top of your bucket list.

Located in the heel of Italy’s boot, Puglia offers everything that makes Italy so irresistible: charming historic towns, stunning coastline, delicious cuisine, and a slower pace of life. Unlike the Amalfi Coast or Cinque Terre, it still feels surprisingly authentic in many areas.

After spending a week road-tripping through Puglia, I completely fell in love with the region. If you’re planning a 1 week itinerary in Puglia, this guide covers everything you need to know, from beautiful whitewashed villages and stunning beaches to the best places to stay and practical travel tips.

Your trip is coming soon and you still haven’t booked anything? I got you covered! Here my top picks of hotels, tours, activities, etc!
Best Tours and Experiences in Puglia:
Wine-tasting tour (Valle d’Itria)
Burrata-making workshop (Valle d’Itria)
Olive oil tour (Valle d’Itria)
Orecchiette cooking class (Typical pugliese pasta – Ostuni)
・Guided tours: Ostuni, Matera and Lecce
Best Places to Stay in Puglia:
Trulli Caroli (Valle d’Itria)
La Rosa d’Ernesto (Ostuni)
Masseria Le Lamie (Taranto)
Masseria Terra d’Otranto (Otranto)

Sunset over Valle d'Itria from Locorotondo, Puglia travel guide by Dancing the Earth

1 week Itinerary in Puglia

Day 1: Ostuni

Start your Puglia road trip in one of the region’s most iconic towns: Ostuni.

Built atop a hill to protect from invaders, Ostuni is a beautiful maze of white alleyways, staircases, arches, corridors and cobbled streets. Dead ends, pretty gardens or glimpses of the Adriatic sea, every corner you take hides a little gem. Ostuni is commonly referred to as La Città Bianca (“the White Town”) for its white walls and its typically white-painted architecture. Ostuni is one of the most photogenic towns in Italy that should be on every Puglia road trip.

As with every Puglian town and village, the best way to discover Ostuni is simply by taking a walk through the centro storico. If like us, you are visiting off-season, be sure to do so in the morning when the town comes alive, before the afternoon “pausa” or later during the day. One of the best ways to discover the town is by joining a guided walking tour, which will take you through the historic centre while sharing the history, architecture, and local traditions that make Ostuni so unique.

Don’t miss the impressive 15th century Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. And be sure to enter, because it’s even more spectacular inside! Head up to Corso Vittorio Emmanuele II for fantastic views over the white city.

・Count at least half a day (ideally 1 full day)
・You’ll find plenty of carpark outside the Centro Storico. I parked at the Parcheggio Comunale Via Salvatore Tommasi, big enough to find a parking spot for sure.

Where to eat in Ostuni

  • Ristorante La Reggia: We arrived quite late at night so just had a pizza to take away and it was amazing, delicious and cheap! It might also be nice to have lunch or dinner there as it is located in a charming medieval cave.
  • Pizzeria Notti Bianche: just a little walk from the cathedral, this pizzeria is really popular with locals!

Where to stay in Ostuni

We stayed at La Rosa d’Ernesto, a dreamy guesthouse right in the centro storico. If you prefer to have only one base for your entire Puglia trip, then Ostuni is the place! It is maxium 1-hour drive from almost everywhere.

Day 2: Valle d’Itria & Polignano a Mare

Three is the magic number they say, and nowhere is this truer than in the Valle d’Itria with its trio of enchanting historic towns: Alberobello, Cisternino, and Locorotondo.

Alberobello

Start your day in Alberobello, probably the most iconic part of Puglia. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996, Alberobello looks like coming straight from fairytale. This little town is made up of 1500 trulli, beehive-shaped houses, white-tipped stone conical rooftops. These drystone buildings are made from local limestone; none are older than the 14th century!

Don’t miss the Trullo Sovrano, the only trullo with a raised floor, and the Parrocchia Sant’Antonio. Those highlights will take you through a maze of streets, from the northern part of the town (thee Rione Aia Piccola district, more authentic) to the southern part (the Rione Monti district, more touristic).

Count 2h.
・I would suggest to arrive early so you’ll find plenty of parking spots. I parked at this parcheggio because it is more central between both parts of the town.

Cisternino

Just a short drive away, Cisternino is a charming hilltop town that can be explored in a couple of hours. Its old centro storico is a lovely labyrinth of white-washed alleys, narrow streets and churches. The town also features several community squares. Each of those are built on the edge of the hill, offering a series of panoramic viewpoints over the Valle d’Itria. Rolling hills, dry stone walls and white-tipped trulli piercing the green fields are spreading in front of your eyes.

If you’re looking for a unique experience in the Valle d’Itria, I highly recommend joining a burrata-making workshop. Learning how this iconic Puglian cheese is made is a fun and delicious way to connect with the region’s culinary traditions, and you’ll get to taste freshly made burrata straight from the source.

Count 1,5h.
I parked at Piazza Garibaldi, perfect to explore the centro storico.

Locorotondo

End the day in Locorotondo, one of Italy’s most beautiful villages.

This white-washed village is known for its wines and for its circular structure, from which derives its name, “Round place”. There’s a lot of cute villages in this road trip in Puglia, but Locorotondo, perched upon a hill, is definitely one of my favorites!

The most fabulous thing about Locorotondo is the lack of real tourist attractions. You can simply spend half a day wandering the maze of tiny streets, enjoying the sun while siping of local sparkling white wine.

Speaking of wine, those up for a good tasting session should go straight to the source and visit the Sede Associazione Turistica Pro-Loco Locorotondo who offers free wine tasting! Unfortunately, it was closed when I visited so instead, I joined this wine-tasting tour to sample regional wines and learn about the area’s winemaking traditions. Another fantastic option is an olive oil tour, where you can visit a traditional masseria, walk among centuries-old olive trees, and taste some of the finest extra virgin olive oils produced in Puglia.

Count 2h.
・You’ll find plenty of carpark outside the centro storico.

Polignano a Mare

Then, head to Polignano a Mare for sunset. We only went for a couple of hours late in the afternoon for the sunset, and it was enough to explore its charming centro storico built onto a rocky outcrop.

Where and what to eat in Valle d’Itria

  • Alberobello: La Nicchia was our favourite restaurant of our Puglia road trip! The food was fresh and amazingly delicious, the portions really generous, and the price so cheap!
  • Cisternino: in the main plaza, be sure to try the bombette (a type of roasted pork meatball), a typical dish of Cisternino cuisine.
  • Locorotondo: tried some u tridde, Locorondo’s speciality, a freshly made pasta ncorporating pecorino cheese and finely-chopped parsley cut into small pieces and cooked in a wholesome turkey broth.
  • Orecchiete: Puglia’s signature ear-shaped pasta, especially found in Cisternino, celebrating the sagre festival, dedicated to this special pasta! You can even learn how to make it yourself!

Where to stay in Valle d’Itria

I would recommend to have a base in the middle of Valle d’Itria, such as the guesthouse I stayed at between Locorotondo and Alberobello: Trulli Caroli. It was the best experience ever and I was so happy to stay there for three nights!

Day 3: Matera, Italy’s oldest city

Although Matera is technically located in the neighbouring region of Basilicata, it is an easy, and greatly rewarding, day trip from Puglia. It is definitely an essential stop on any Puglia itinerary.

Famous for its ancient cave dwellings known as the Sassi, Matera is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Walking through Matera feels like stepping back in time. Stone houses, churches carved into the rock, winding staircases, and breathtaking viewpoints create one of the most unique landscapes in Italy.

The sassi once contained such appalling poverty and unthinkable living conditions that in the 1950s Matera was denounced as the ‘Shame of Italy’. Only in later decades has the value of this extraordinarily built environment been recognised. In 2019 the city was recognised as a European Capital of Culture. You will of course learn it all and more by joining a guided walking tour!

Things to do in Matera

Spend the day exploring the Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano districts, visiting rock churches, and admiring the city from the panoramic viewpoints across the canyon.

Do not miss the three rupestrian churches, Chiesa di Santa Maria di Idris, San Barisano and Sant’Agostino, absolutely breathtaking and offering incredible panoramas over the Sassi di Matera. The Casa Grotta, inhabited until 1952, is another must-do, along with the Cathedral and the Chiesa di San Giovanni.

Tip: The best photo spots are Belvedere Luigi Gerricchio, the staircases near Casa Cava, via d’Addozio 70, and Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli.

Count at least a day, two days if you want more time.
The Parcheggio Comune di Matera, right behind the train station, despite being 15min walking to the old town, is big and free and safe. I arrived in Matera around 10am and a lot of the parking closer to the centro storico were already full…

Where to eat in Matera

  • L’Antica Credenza: I didn’t make it on time for lunch but it was full and looked absolutely delicious!
  • L’Arturo Enogastronomia: although it was quite late, they accepted me for lunch and made me the most delicious Italian sandwich I’ve ever had!

Where to stay in Matera

For an unforgettable experience, consider spending a night in one of Matera’s famous cave hotels such as:
・⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Quarry Matera
・⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Maison boutique Matteotti
・⭐️⭐️⭐️ La Corte Vetere – Terrazza sui Sassi

I personally decided to not stay inside Matera as it was crazy expensive (probably because it was the European Capital of Culture at the time). Instead, we drove an hour towards Taranto to stay at the amazing Masseria Le Lamie. It is a charming masseria from the 19th century combining the typical architecture of the Pugliese farms with the most modern comfort. We chose to have dinner there and it was incredibly delicious! All the ingredients were straight from the farm and the wine was local. Definitely one of the best choices of our road trip!

Day 4: Gallipoli & Spaggia della Sorgente

Gallipoli

Gallipoli means “beautiful city”, and the town certainly lives up to its name! We spent the morning wandering through its old town centre, sitting on a tiny island connected to the mainland by a 17th-century bridge. It is almost completely surrounded by defensive walls, mainly built in the 14th century.

Spend some time wandering the narrow streets, visiting the impressive Cathedral of Sant’Agata, and enjoying views from the ancient city walls overlooking the sea. Don’t forget to bring your swimsuit if you want to enjoy those long sandy beaches!

Spiaggia della Sorgente

Well hidden in the middle of the Parco naturale regionale Porto Selvaggio, it is a nice and easy walk to reach it, making it quite an ideal beach to relax! It is also a great spot for snorkelling or having lunch on the picnic tables.

Tip: Try to go early and to park in La Rotonda di Santa Caterina or in the streets, are it tends to get quite full around noon. I came around 3pm and was lucky to find a spot to park!

Day 5: Lecce & Galatina

Lecce

Often referred to as the “Florence of the South”, Lecce is renowned for its spectacular baroque architecture. Although I ended up not having time to visit Lecce during my road trip through Puglia (I was too busy enjoying Porto Miggiano!), it’s at the very top of my list for my next visit to the region.

Known for its elegant historic centre, lively atmosphere, excellent restaurants, and beautiful baroque buildings, Lecce is often considered one of the cultural highlights of Puglia. It’s also famous for its traditional papier-mâché craftsmanship and delicious local cuisine.

If you’re visiting for the first time, I would highly recommend joining a guided walking tour of the city. It’s one of the best ways to discover Lecce’s fascinating history, admire its stunning architecture (and underground Museum!), and learn more about the traditions that make the city so unique.

And of course, don’t leave without trying a pasticciotto, the iconic custard-filled pastry that originated right here in Lecce.

Galatina

Just a short drive from Lecce, Galatina remains one of Puglia’s hidden gems.

The town is best known for the Basilica di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, which houses some of the most remarkable frescoes in southern Italy. With fewer tourists and a wonderfully authentic atmosphere, Galatina offers a glimpse into everyday life in Puglia beyond the region’s most famous destinations.

As for Lecce, I didn’t get a chance to visit but it is on our list for our next trip there!

Day 6: Salento Beaches

Today is all about the spectacular coastline of Salento. From dramatic sea stacks and natural pools to hidden coves surrounded by limestone cliffs, this stretch of the Adriatic coast is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in Puglia.

Torre Sant’Andrea

Start your day at Torre Sant’Andrea, famous for its dramatic sea stacks rising from the turquoise waters of the Adriatic. The rugged coastline, natural arches, and crystal-clear sea make it one of the most photogenic locations in all of Puglia.

Tip: Arrive early if you want to enjoy the viewpoints before the crowds arrive.

Torre Sant'Andrea, drone view, Puglia travel guide by Dancing the Earth

Grotta della Poesia

From Torre Sant’Andrea, continue south along the coast to one of Puglia’s most famous natural attractions. Grotta della Poesia is one of the 10 most beautiful natural pools in the world, according to National Geographic. Surrounded by impressive rocky landscape and the clear blue waters of the Adriatic Sea, it is a classic Italian hangout spot during summer for sunbathing, cliff jumping and swimming.

Tip: If you’re visiting during the peak season and want a calm and private swimming experience, I would suggest to go there before 10am, since it tends to get quite crowded around noon.

Grotta della Poesia, Puglia travel guide by Dancing the Earth

Porto Miggiano

After a refreshing swim, continue your journey further south to my personal favorite beach in Puglia. Porto Miggiano is probably one of Puglia’s most beautiful hidden coves.

Surrounded by high limestone cliffs and incredibly clear water, it feels like a natural swimming pool carved into the coastline.

Tip: It is quite an adventure to get there but it is absolutely worth it. You can park at the Augustus Resort and walk until you reach the end of the parking. The hidden beach is lying at the bottom of the cliff. Soak in the spectacular view from the top before taking the 100 steps built into the cliff down to the sparkling crystal-clear Adriatic water below.

Day 7: Otranto

Located on the easternmost point of Italy, Otranto is one of my favourite towns in Puglia, and the perfect place to end your 1-week road trip around Puglia!

The Strait of Otranto, to which the city gives its name, connects the Adriatic Sea with the Ionian Sea and separates Italy from Albania. Otranto was the capital of the last Byzantine stronghold, the Terra d’Otranto. In the 15th-century, many of its inhabitants are massacred when the city was conquered by Mohammed II. The Greek influence was such in Otranto that the locals speak a dialect very close to Greek.

Otranto is also one of the Venetian fortress towns that once helped defend the maritime routes of the Republic of Venice. If you love historic fortified cities, don’t miss my guide to the most beautiful Venetian fortresses in Italy.

Otranto’s centro storico is encircled by imposing walls which date back to the Messapian period, aka 8th century BC! As usual, the best way to explore this city is to get lost in the maze of alleyways. You will probably somehow ending up to the beautiful sea front, perfect to enjoy a local sandwich Puccia.

Don’t miss the Santa Maria Annunziata cathedral. Consecrated in 1088, the largest church in the region miraculously survived the siege by the Turks. The cathedral is home to an extraordinary mosaic floor created in the 12th century which has survived until now. The 600 000 multi-coloured tiles form a picture book telling local stories.

Tip: The Cathedral opens daily from 8am to 1pm and from 3:30pm to 8pm.

Where to eat in Otranto

  • Agriturismo Le Tagliate: a family restaurant near Otranto. I couldn’t have dinner here because it was closed when I went (low season, hello!)
  • Agriturismo Montenachiro: a good place to have great Italian food and homemade wine, not far from Porto Miggiano.
  • Pasticceria Ascalone (Galatina): inventors of Puglia’s signature cake, the pasticciotto, a crumbly pastry filled with egg custard.
  • Postofisso (Otranto): a great place to have Puccia (Salento’s typical sandwich) according to locals.
  • Skile: amazing pizzas in a rustic family run restaurant.

Where to stay in Otranto

I decided to have a base not far from Otranto to explore the Salento and I highly recommend you to do so. That way you won’t spend too much time checking in and out hotels. I stayed at Masseria Terra d’Otranto and it was fabulous! The old woman owning the farm doesn’t quite speak English but with her love and enthusiast, it was easy to understand each other!


How to get there and how to get around

As I said, Puglia is tailored made for a road trip. Hence, I’ll suggest you arrive either at Bari or Brindisi airport (I chose the latter), and rent a car there, which clearly is the most convenient way to explore this part of Italy. In fact, although the region is becoming more and more touristic, the public transport services is very limited. So having a car is a necessity that can’t be neglected.

I know the thought of driving in Italy sounds intimidating (and I was!), but the Puglia region is quite low stress. Most of the towns are connected by quiet roads that cut through farmlands, and all the routes are pretty straight forward.

Note: The only thing you must pay attention to are the dreaded “ZTL” (Zona Traffico Limitato). They are found in major Italian cities centro storico to reduce congestion in high traffic area, and make them more pleasant for pedestrians and residents. However, driving in the wrong part of an old town can result in a very costly fine, often send back home a few months afterwards! Pugliese towns are no exception, and in fact have a relatively large ZTL that you will not be able to take your car through. The car parks I’ve suggested you in this article are all outside the ZTL and safe to park in.

Best Time to Visit Puglia

Puglia can be visited year-round, but some seasons are more enjoyable than others.

  • Spring (April to June): One of the best times to visit Puglia. Temperatures are pleasant, flowers are blooming, and popular towns are much quieter than during summer.
  • Summer (July and August): Summer brings long sunny days and warm sea temperatures. It’s the perfect time for beach lovers, but expect larger crowds and higher accommodation prices.
  • Autumn (September and October): My favourite season to visit. The sea remains warm, temperatures are comfortable, and the summer crowds begin to disappear.
  • Winter (November to March): Winter is much quieter. While beach days are off the agenda, you’ll enjoy a more local experience and lower prices, but also keep in mind that a lot of restaurants and hotels are closed for the off-season.

I hope this travel guide to Puglia will inspire you to visit this beautiful and still less touristy part of Italy! I’ve put everything that I thought was necessary for you to plan your best trip there. But if you need, feel free to reach out with any questions! And don’t forget to tag me in your stories and posts on Instagram if this article inspires you!

With love, 
Marina

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30 Comments

  1. 16 August 2020 / 4 h 42 min

    First, I love how much fun you are having in that dress in so many pictures! Thank you for also providing alternatives for different plans! Another place to add to my Italian bucket list ๐Ÿ™‚

    • Marina
      Author
      16 August 2020 / 4 h 49 min

      Haha yes I love this dress, so comfy! Puglia is definitely one of my fav regions of Italy and I’m sure you’ll love it!

  2. 16 August 2020 / 14 h 01 min

    This looks like a stunning place to visit – thanks for the great tips!

    • Marina
      Author
      18 August 2020 / 6 h 44 min

      It really is, highly recommend it!

  3. 16 August 2020 / 17 h 37 min

    So much whitewash, so little time. And certainly, not enough time to sample all those dishes. Your photos made me feel as if I was right there.

    • Marina
      Author
      18 August 2020 / 6 h 45 min

      Thank you so much! Oh yes there’s so many things to do, you could easily spend two weeks there!

  4. 18 August 2020 / 6 h 56 min

    Wow, I’ve never heard of Puglia before but your photos and post makes me want to go so bad! All of the places you visited sounds so beautiful!

  5. Sam
    20 August 2020 / 17 h 04 min

    I am dreaming to go to Puglia! Thank you for such a detailed guide and I am obsessed with your photos!

  6. 22 August 2020 / 13 h 49 min

    Wow! PUGLIA is so beautiful… My last trip to Italy sadly was not much. Did not have so much time. However, after reading your post I am definitely adding this on my next trip to Italy, Lovely pictures and great content. Will pin it!

    • Marina
      Author
      29 August 2020 / 8 h 38 min

      Thank you so much for your words! I hope you’ll enjoy your time in Puglia when you visit!

  7. Taylor
    6 September 2020 / 4 h 59 min

    This is amazing Marina! I was supposed to go to Southern Italy this past spring, but we had to postpone to next year. You are making me extra excited with this blog post and all of your photos are always amazing. ๐Ÿ™‚

    • Marina
      Author
      7 September 2020 / 5 h 26 min

      I hope you’ll be able to visit next year, it’s so beautiful! Thank you Taylor ๐Ÿ™‚

  8. 6 September 2020 / 5 h 27 min

    This guide is so extensive! And I love how many images you put in. I’ve only made it to Rome in Italy, but I can’t wait to go more places.

    • Marina
      Author
      7 September 2020 / 5 h 27 min

      Oh yes Italy is full of gems!

  9. 6 September 2020 / 6 h 19 min

    Your photos are DREAMY! I especially love the cobblestone roads and narrow, cozy alleys!

    • Marina
      Author
      7 September 2020 / 5 h 27 min

      Thank you so much!!!

  10. Teri Potts
    6 September 2020 / 9 h 12 min

    All of this looks and sounds AMAZING! Definitely saving this post for a future adventure. Thank you for sharing ๐Ÿ’•

    • Marina
      Author
      7 September 2020 / 5 h 27 min

      Thank you for reading! I hope you’ll be able to visit soon ๐Ÿ™‚

  11. 6 September 2020 / 12 h 23 min

    So jealous you got to visit Puglia! It’s been on my list of places to visit for a while now.

    • Marina
      Author
      7 September 2020 / 5 h 28 min

      It’s just so incredible there! I definitely highly recommend it, especially while it’s still not too popular ><

  12. 6 September 2020 / 17 h 41 min

    What an incredible looking area. I love the small buildings around Alberobello, you’re right they are definitely fairytale-like. Those beaches are also just incredible though. This is for sure a place to put on the ever growing list

    • Marina
      Author
      7 September 2020 / 5 h 28 min

      Thank you so much for reading!

  13. 6 September 2020 / 17 h 53 min

    Wow Puglia looks so beautiful! I would love to travel to this part of Italy. The beaches here look phenomenal and it looks like there are some adorable villages and towns. I can see why the Grotto del Poesia is ranked as such a beautiful spot by Nat Geo!

    • Marina
      Author
      7 September 2020 / 5 h 28 min

      Yess Grotta della Poesia is definitely stunning!

  14. Suvarna Arora
    9 September 2020 / 6 h 15 min

    Puglia looks so beautiful. I only knew about one place which is quite famous but thanks to your guide now I know I have to visit all of them.

    • Marina
      Author
      14 September 2020 / 5 h 18 min

      haha there’s so much more than just the instagrammable places ๐Ÿ˜‰

  15. 12 September 2020 / 13 h 14 min

    I can’t wait for the spring, and my trip to Puglia!!! I was thinking to go now in the autumn, but I’ll just explore the north for now…

    • Marina
      Author
      14 September 2020 / 5 h 18 min

      I’ll hope you’ll be able to visit it soon ๐Ÿ™‚

  16. 15 May 2021 / 13 h 09 min

    I think your blog is my new favorite! Such inspiration!

    • Marina
      Author
      15 May 2021 / 22 h 38 min

      Awww thank you so so much for your kind words! It makes me so happy, thank you!

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